[ CELLARS ]
In the cellar at ‘M’ des Avenières
Cruseilles, France

Set in Château des Avenières, nestled in woodland between Geneva and Annecy, the restaurant ‘M’ is quietly transitioning from conventional, high-end gourmet cuisine to a thoroughly modern and relaxed bistronomy style.
To design a wine list consistent with this new focus, the sommelier and recently appointed director, Marc Henri Mialon, showcases the vibrant energy of Savoy vineyards and their closest neighbours, in Switzerland and Italy.
Located over 1,000 metres above sea level, in a setting where every detail is carefully curated to blend charm and convenience, we met in front of the chateau’s esoteric chapel where EuroCave wine cabinets take centre stage.

Produce grown 100 metres from the plate
"Most of the vegetables and herbs we cook with come from less than 30 km from the chateau, and some of them are grown in the estate’s very own kitchen gardens. This guarantees their local origins and ensures the cuisine is always seasonal. The chef, who spent twenty years in Ukraine, combines his international culinary inspiration with local produce. One dish that springs to mind in particular is his vegetarian course, a flavourful mixture of spices and sweet potato which hits the mark with every service !"
The revival of vineyards around Lake Annecy
"We care about promoting local wines and the remarkable vitality that drives the Annecy region. Recently, we added to our list the first wines by five winegrowers who have committed to replanting vineyards. These are wines with panache made from local grape varieties like Jacquère and Mondeuse – the intention is to make them accessible and less elitist. I’m thinking in particular of Francis Rousset, a winegrower who created a vineyard here using grape varieties from neighbouring Switzerland, after travelling across Russia on foot. The only thing left to do now is to secure recognition for Lake Annecy as an appellation site in its own right !"
The vineyards next door
"Our wine list reflects a great variety of vineyard sites, giving pride of place to regional wines. These include the Royal Sessel sparkling wine made using the traditional method, which we serve as an aperitif. Now produced by Karine and Régis Bernard, the wine was initially dedicated to Queen Victoria when she visited Haute-Savoie. What could be more natural than to serve a royal wine within the chateau’s walls! We are also broadening our selection by featuring Swiss and Italian wines. Wines that come to mind in particular are those by Nikita Novelle, one of my former students at the Lausanne hospitality college. These foreign vineyards are located just 15 kilometres from Geneva and so are actually a lot closer than some French wine regions like the Loire Valley !"
Sake, the unsung treasure
"Sake is a full-fledged category for sommeliers, but it is seldom showcased here. And yet, it is a remarkable drink, midway between wine and beer. Made from different varieties of rice – nearly fifty are used throughout the different Japanese prefectures – the top sake pours show great elegance with beautiful fruit structures. In terms of pairings, sake offers countless possibilities – it makes a marvellous partner for puddings, oysters and cheeses where its milky notes happily stand out !"
EuroCave cabinets in front of the esoteric chapel
"I decided to place EuroCave cabinets in a strategic location at the chateau – the visible part, at the entrance to the esoteric chapel, which people have to go past. Cabinet makers are currently working on the furniture that will house the cabinets. We need practical, quick and effective serving cabinets offering ease of access for the head waiters during the service. Three cabinets have been installed so that temperatures can be separated for red wines and white wines with Champagnes. We have also chosen to limit the number of wines on the list to 300-400 so that it remains consistent and in step with the restaurant’s switch to bistronomy. So, we are not systematically looking to feature top Burgundies or Bordeaux, though I did allow myself to include a few Château d’Yquem – old habits die hard !"
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