5 unforgettable matches

01.

Chilled red and carpaccio in Venice

“Maybe I’m going to disappoint you because I can no longer recite ‘perfect combinations’. Over the years, I've discovered that it's more about the mood and the occasion. Like that time at the classic Harry’s Bar in Venice many years ago. I was very young, and I was mesmerised by the stories and the setting. They told me about the carpaccio, how they made it for a baroness who had a diet of raw meat and that the name came from a Renaissance artist. They served it with a chilled red wine in a carafe. I don’t remember what it was, but sitting there watching the sun from the canal and the skill of the waiters... The cool red wine and the raw meat... Beautiful !”

02.

Fried eggs and red wine

“I was invited to a dinner by two former students, one of whom had cooked at the Nobel Prize ceremony. The theme was white truffles, and in comes a perfectly fried egg with frivolous amounts of truffles. The wine was a red by Josetta Saffirio in Piedmont. It went perfectly with the menu and was proof that you can work with contrasts – it does not have to be nice or good, it can be something else. The combination was not a given, but it captured the moment, the mood, and spoke to your 'bad side' – it went outside the norm and became something creative instead of mechanical. We should also remember that this was served at a time when people talked about the ‘friends and enemies’ of wine. But eggs can be a wine’s friend.”

03.

Improvised Château Cheval Blanc before langoustines

“We had an impromptu dinner this summer, after a day at the seaside. We were going to eat crayfish, and started with some snacks and Champagne. I brought a 1999 Château Cheval Blanc, and thought, why not have it as an appetiser? It was such a lovely evening that we were sitting outside. So we had this mature wine before going inside to eat langoustines and drink Chablis. We totally turned things around and it became something special. I brought the wine because I wanted to share it; you have to seize the moment, if it feels good there and then – go for it!"

04.

Mature sweet wine as a surprise.

“When I started working in a restaurant many years ago, we had the sweet wine Il Capitelli (Garganega, Soave) by Roberto Anselmi on the menu. I liked it and bought some bottles. Next week some friends are getting together to cook, and I'm going to bring a few vintages, 1992-94, and make them part of the dinner. I don’t know when and for what. Time will tell. But this wine has such power, with its sweetness and freshness. My experience is that it works with both hot and cold food, and with cheese. It is so mature that it has a dry finish. I want to capture the moment, the energy of the room and seize the opportunity. Sweet wine has always attracted humans; we like sweet and fat. It’s part of our genetic make-up.”  

05.

Fino sherry with salt cools the heat. 

“I’ve always had a soft spot for fino sherry. I’ve spent a lot of time in Jerez, Seville and Madrid, where it’s really hot. In the mornings I’ve taken flamenco lessons, and in the evenings you stroll down the street for a glass of fino with boquerones, anchovies, bread with garlic, tomato and salt... just so that you can sit there and get into the mood. Something happens in your body. You relax. I long for that feeling. I know that fino is not easy. It’s a bit messy in its flavour profile, but it reflects my soul – there’s something ‘skinless’ about it. It’s all about the atmosphere, although there are also flavour similarities between fino and boquerones – both have a special character and both have similar energy.”